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Costume vs. Garb — well, which is it?

You’ve just discovered the joys of historical reenacting[1] and have joined your first event as a real participant, not a well-appointed patron, and during the course of the event, you find yourself engulfed in a heated dispute over what to call the outfit you are wearing. ACK! What’s a newbie to do? So, while you’re fending off some overzealous, self-appointed member of the costume police, please allow me to clarify a few points and answer that eternal question . . . The ultimate answer might surprise you. It did us!

Is it a “Costume” or is it“Garb”?

As much as some would prefer it to be the contrary, referring to your “fyne period attyre” as a Costume is not only grammatically correct, but proper as well, as I will explain.

A Costume as defined[2] is either “the attire worn in a play or at a fancy dress ball”; “the attire characteristic of a country or a time or a social class” or “unusual or period attire not characteristic of or appropriate to the time or place.”

So let’s examine the facts.

  1. You are a Participant and/or a Performer at your local Ren Faire.
  2. You’re wearing clothes are indicative of 16th century England.
  3. It’s the 21st century America.

First, if you assume the premise that “All the Faire’s a Stage”, then the condition of “attire worn in a play” is met, and thus, you are wearing a costume.

Second, the simple fact you are wearing clothing reminiscent of 16th century England and the calendar says it’s June of 2003 and you’re in Devor, California precludes that it could be anything else but a costume.

Therefore, with that being said, you are wearing a Costume.

Nevertheless, there are instances where not only are you wearing a Costume, but you are wearing Garb as well.

 Garb, as defined[3] is most commonly what we do, e.g.: “provide [someone] with clothing or put on clothes”. Think of that line from a well known Christmas Carole – “don we now our gay apparel.” Additionally, Garb is also “a particular dress for sporting,” and here lays our clue, the use of the word “sporting.” While the usage is somewhat Victorian as well as arcane in nature, and no longer in vogue, sporting refers to one’s participating in athletic endeavors. As any student of Biblical Hebrew will tell you, Garb is one of those words that gets as close to a verbal noun as we get in the English language.

Therefore, if you are participating in recreation of a period athletic event (ie: fencing, archery, horse tournaments, jousting and such), the specific period attire worn for such an event would most certainly as well as correctly be considered Garb. However, it is only Garb if you are a participant in the sporting event, not as a part of the combatants’ following or the spectators.

Regretfully, there is a “certain stigma” that has become associated with the word “costume.” Amongst certain factions of historical reenactors, there are those would rather die a thousand deaths than to have their labor of love be equated to that $40.00 special from the local volume discounter at Halloween time. I, on the other hand am not, but I am going to take the leap and speculate that this might have something to do with the readily acceptance of the word “Cosplay”[4] as a way to distinguish our labors of love – usually from a movie, television program, comic book or anime – from a fancy dress party outfit. [Yes, I used the British term for a costume party.]

So what is our answer to the question? We say Yes, it’s both – we just lean heavier towards the costume side of the equation.  But whatever you want to call it, it’s still just clothes from a different era than the one we are currently in.

 

References:

[1]“Historical Reenacting” for the purposes of this paper is being generically applied to any and all activities which require the participant to dress and conduct themselves in manner appropriate to an era of history that is not the actual years in which they are living. Such groups include reenactors at such places at Kentwell Hall, Colonial Williamsburg, Plymoth Plantation; Renaissance Faire participants (“Rennies”), Dickens Festivals, and members of the Society for Creative Anachronisms (SCA) to name a few of the more prominent groups.

[2] The American Heritage College Dictionary, Third Edition, Houghtion, Mifflin Company, 1993, page 314

[3]The American Heritage College Dictionary, Third Edition, Houghtion, Mifflin Company, 1993, page 561

[4] “Cosplay.” Wikipedia. Wikipedia Foundation, Inc, 5 Mar. 2016. Web. 15 Mar. 2016. <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosplay#cite_note-42>.

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What the Dickens?

I’ve always wanted to go to a Dickens Festival and could never make it up to San Francisco to work let alone visit the annual event that is still put on by the same folks behind the original Renaissance Pleasure Faire.  I do not even remember how I found it — I may have been searching Steam Punk — but I found one that in held in Riverside, CA and in February.  Since it was only just a weekend event, I thought I might be able to get pastoral dispensation and work it, so I volunteered.  Then, I realized that I literally did not have a thing to wear, except for a pair of brown tights.

Here is my list:

My patterns are split between two companies: Past Patterns, whose patterns I’ve worked with before and will need to grade up a couple of sizes, and Laughing Moon Mercantile for the first time.  Their patterns go up to size 34, which is larger than I actually need.

Chemise: Past Patterns: # 717 — Tucked Chemise, circa 1850-1860, purchased via amazon.com.  I found some really awesome paisley eyelet fabric for the body at joann.com and some interesting eyelet trim from Korea on etsy.com.  The fabric washed up beautifully and is both delightfully semi-sheer and soft.

Petticoat and Drawers: Past Patterns: # 706 — Mid-19th Century Petticoat & Drawers, circa 1860-1870, purchased via amazon.com.  I found some very reasonably priced border eyelet fabric on fabric.com in white for both and denim blue for the top petticoat.

Corset: Bijoux Pattern Co. (they’re a division of Laughing Moon Mercantile) Ladies’ Victorian Corset #1.  I picked this one because it’s got more seams and should be easier to make the necessary sizing adjustments.  I’m also going to make this in a light khaki-color 5.3 oz linen that I have in my stash.

Day Dress (wrapper style): Laughing Moon Mercantile 120# — Pleated Wrapper/ Word Dress.  I found a cream background reproduction print for it at twobeesfabric.com

I also have a ballgown pattern and hoops and bustle pattern, but since I won’t be going to the ball, I won’t be making them for this go-round.

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Nottingham Festival 2015 — OMC, what have I gotten myself into?!

Having run my into the proverbial writer’s block known as having your characters sit down for supper and get stuck there for a year and a half, I decided what better way to get the mojo working again.  as I mentioned in my pattern review post, I had run myself out of original Renn Faire character story arc and the proverbial wall. So I decided, “Hey why not make yourself a costume and go to some local faire and be your female protagonist again and see where she takes go.”

So about a month ago I tweeted out the picture below saying, I’m thinking about making this to wear to the Nottingham Festival, which they favorited and replied they’d liked to see it.  My source is taken from the Album Amicorum of a German Soldier that is housed at LACMA.  It was part of their online collection a few years back, but is currently unavailable.  In looking at my graphics, I found similar gown in “gray” that might fit the bill, too.

Option #1

I have less than a month to build something from the ground up. And by the ground up, I mean the gown, some type of head covering since I have barely shoulder-length  hair, partlet, and a farthingale or petticoat, though I leaning towards just lining the gown with some heavy-weight linen and see where it take me.  The only things I don’t need are a smock and a corset.

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Tudor kirtles and petticoats

Intro: The Tudor Tailor’s Patterns for Tudor kirtles and petticoats

I am still in the midst of writing my historical romance novel and have hit that crossroads where I have run out of original Renn Faire character story arc and the proverbial wall. So I decided, “Hey why not make yourself a costume and go to some local faire and be your female protagonist again and see where she takes go.”

So I’m going the Nottingham Festival …. in a month …from yesterday. It’s the last local faire until the spring and will tie in nicely with the timing of #NaNoWriMo which starts on 11/1. No pressure. Since time was of the essence, rather than draft my own patterns because I have to start from the ground up, I chose to go with The Tudor Tailor’s Tudor kirtles and petticoats pattern. I bought the pattern a couple of years ago and it’s been sitting around calling to me.

The fabric of choose is asphalt grey 5.3 ounce linen that I also acquired two years ago. The sleeves may or may not be made in either willow or natural linen, it depends on our capricious weather.

More to follow …

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Minibreeze comes to visit … and learns Bow Ties and Fezes are cool

And now for some catching up on blog posts…albeit a year late.

This past summer we had a couple of house guests: Minibreeze and Edgar the Kitten — the stuffed avatar our twitter friends Mister Breeze and Boris Kitty, two really paw-some purr-sons as well as the humans behind them. [Yes, I used LOLcat speak, get over it.]

So what does a costumer do when hosting stuffies, she makes them costumes so the little guys can cosplay with their peeps!  Who doesn’t like The Doctor, especially Eleven?  So this is where I started.  I recreated the 11th Doctor’s iconic fashion accessories: his fez and bow tie.  Regretfully, I didn’t take any in process photos during the construction process, but I’ve got one of the finished product.

When I finished this and and “classic” Starfleet dress uniform, I safely packaged up Minibreeze and his new clothes, and his new companion, #FlatCassidy and off to the Post Office we went.  When the very nice postal lady asked is I had any liquids, hazardous materials, perishables, yadda, yadda, yadda, I replied only nope, only excessively cute scifi costumes for little black panfur beanie baby.  As she interest was now piqued, I flipped out my cell phone and showed her the picture.  She let out a sqee of delight.

I proudly present to you, #Minibreeze in all his Whovian cosplay finery.  You’ll agree, he is too cute not to sqee.

Bow ties are cool and so are fezzes
#Minibreez sez: Bow ties are cool and so are fezzes.
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What we’ve been up to …

Here is a brief recap of the trouble we’ve gotten ourselves into the past year:

  1. Still working on our historical romance novel.
  2. Taking a stab at learning biblical Hebrew and sucking at it, royally.
  3. Discovering QueenAnneBolyen.com and the possibility of doing some writing for them.
  4. Became a Downton-head
  5. Becoming obsessed with Game of Thrones.
  6. Hosting Minibreeze and well, costuming him.
  7. Holding Egar da Kitty reluctantly hostage. (long, lame story)
  8. Knit a pint-size Doctor Who scarf for our twitter friend, Zack Rabbit.
  9. Discovered “Meals in a Jar” and making my own!  and No, I haven’t gone prepper.
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Sci-Fi Pawty Prize donation – Wecanhas … scarf the fourth?

Doctor Who 11th Theme Music  For the full experience, click the link, you know you want to.

Being the proud and fur-covered mother of her four rescued felines, it is my privilege to help where and how I can.

So with that now being said, I asked myself … what does a Whovian period costumer do to incorporate her three of her four passions of Sci-fi, costuming and supporting animal rescue charities on a shoestring?  She hand-knits the Fourth Doctor’s iconic Scarf and donates it as a prize for Boris Kitty’s 5th Annual Sci-Fi Pawty. The SCIFpawty is a virtual Science Fiction Convention on Twitter. The hashtag #SCFIpawty The proceeds will once again benefit One By One Cat Rescue in Kutztown, PA a no-kill, non-profit organization.

So what does a person or more specifically a Whovian need to know about the scarf featured below?

  1. This scarf is by the book. As outlined in my blog post entitled  A Whovian’s …err “Delight”? — making the fourth Doctor’s Scarf I use the “Official BBC Enterprises Knitting pattern for the ‘Doctor Who’ Scarf,” which can be found here: http://www.androgums.org/scarf.html.
  2. Yes, it really is 12 feet long.
  3. The scarf is knit in 100% acrylic yarn, specifically:  Lion Brand Yarn’s “Vanna’s Choice.”  I love this yarn.  It is soft, has a good hand, has a wide color palette and best of all, is machine wash and dry.
  4. The colors are cannon.  I’ve used the color resources at Witty Little Knitter.  If anyone has done their homework, Tara Carstensen certainly has.  [Dudes, seriously. She took an OTT Light and a Pantone color book with her when she got the opportunity to have a hands on with the Shada scraf.]  Here is her template and list of yarns.
  5. Pictures [below] — we fussed over which phone took the best and most accurate representation of the colors.  The husband’s iPhone won.  We took pictures against both a black coat and a warm, dark brown coat to give you the best opportunities to see what it will look like before it arrives at your home.
  6. Hand-knitting — I hope in stating that this scarf has been hand-knit by yours truly would imply that there might be an irregularity or two in the knitting process.  There are three or four little “burps” in the stitches.  Now when you consider everything that Four put his scarf through, these are nothing; however, I did feel compelled to mention them.
  7. Cat Fur — the cats have made their own contribution to this project.  Thus, there is small small quantity of car fur that has unavoidably knitted into the scarf.
  8. The scarf has been washed in 7th Generation “Free & clear” it get out all of the awful sizing and the aforementioned cat fur as possible.

Doctor Who 4th Scarf - Black coat right side up Doctor Who 4th Scarf - Bown coat right side up

And as a sneak peak, here is our annual #scfipawty avatar: our 3 of 4, Obi-wan as his name sake.

May the #scfipawty force be with you.
May the #scfipawty force be with you.

 

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NaNoWriMo, anyone?

So it’s only September 22 and #nanowrimo doesn’t start for another 39 days but who’s counting?  But I’ve continued to work on the the novel I started some ten months back, which in truth is a storyline that began to take its shape back in 1983 when I was developing the backstory for my middle class Renaissance Faire personae.  Yep my peeps, it’s a bucket-list item — I always told myself that I would finish this dang thing and now I am committed to doing just that.  It’s original working tile was “Summer of Splendour” and now currently “Lament” and yes, I’ve gotten myself an editor [a fair trade for the Eleanora of Toledo gown] who is very excited about it and lots of doors have been opening.

Now two things to note:

First and dearest to my heart Foxes Period Costumes will make recreating all of our heroine’s note worthy gowns

Second, in doing some research for the novel, I decided “what the heck” and Googled the gentleman who played opposite to me at Faire and discovered that he too is a fledgling writer and oh yeah, he started writing at about the same time I did.  He’s published about a half dozen short fantasy story stories, which works out to my current word count.  For those who knew the both of us 25-30 years when we were a quasi-couple back in the day wouldn’t be too surprised but a little disturbed that we were doing the same thing at the same time …from opposite ends of the state.

So from my National Novel Writing Month’s novel recap page, I give you:

Lament

Synopsis

Exploring the natural evolution of two (very, very retired) Renaissance Faire characters in the form of your basic trashy historical romance novel — One part Skye O’Malley, one part Once Upon a Time.

Excerpt

Lady Katherine sighed deeply as she thought of the details of her life that had brought her to this place. She tucked her fur lined velvet throw tightly around her legs to help block out the cold night air. The roaring fire in the hearth did very little to keep her warm, but it was certainly warmer than where she would be headed in a few short hours to answer for her alleged crimes.

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A Whovian’s …err “Delight”? — making the fourth Doctor’s Scarf: part 2

It is finished, at least the knitting part.  I still need to weave the ends in and add more tassels — the Whovian Times pattern that I used calls for seven tassels and I think that must have been wrong and every scene I’ve seen while streaming classic Doctor Who via Netflix has much more.

My Doctor Who Scarf ticker — as of 7/8/13

 

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A Whovian’s …err “Delight”? — making the fourth Doctor’s Scarf

You always remember your first Doctor…

I know I either heard or read that somewhere, just can’t remember exactly where so I”ll give the Doctor himself the credit and move on from there.

Being a child of the sixties and seventies, my first Doctor was number 4, although retrospectively speaking it could have actually been 3 because it was my father who introduced me to Doctor Who [pun not intended, exactly], but it was Tm Baker that won my heart and like all fans I had to have the scarf.  That was also 30 years ago.

2013 has sorta of become my bucket list year, not that I’m dying or anything like that, just finally getting around to doing things that have been sitting around too long — the first being the (almost fully finished) Eleanora of Toledo Gown; the second being my beloved fourth Doctor’s scarf.

I started the scarf on May 18th as sort of an early birthday present and I’ve being tweeting my progress on the scarf via one of my twitter alter egos, which I’ve recapped below and have gotten a couple of replies.  One was a woo-who, very excited and the other was “I’ll never do that again.”  Surprisingly, when I did a search on the #DoctorWhoScarf hash tag on Twitter, that was the majority opinion: never again.

Perhaps I’m in the minority, the extreme minority, but I’ll only been at this 6 weeks and I’m over half way there as testified to my my scraf-o-matic ticker below.  [Come on people, it’s only a simple garter stitch! You can do it!  she says in a bad impression of Matt Smith as 11.]

My Doctor Who Scarf status ticker – 6-29-2013

I am delighted that I’m finally knitting this and that is going so very quickly and yes, I am available for hire to knit one of your very own, I’m just trying to figure what it’s going to cost.  (Reply to this post if you’re seriously interested and I will get back to you.)

For those who’ve just gotta know, I’m using the “Official BBC Enterprises Knitting pattern for the ‘Doctor Who’ Scarf,” which can be found here: http://www.androgums.org/scarf.html.  I am using a combination of acrylic yarns that best matched the colors with a slight deviation from the original — I’m using an oatmeal color instead to the camel to go better with my skin tones …after all, it is my scarf.

I’ve used the color resources at Doctor Who Scarf .com to help pick my color palette. I opted for the more natural colors.   http://www.doctorwhoscarf.com/s12.html

Twitter feed recap:

5/29/13 — #DoctorWho scarf status report week 1.5 I’ve gotten about 27 inches done.

5/30/13 — This witty knitter is using a blend of acrylic yarn and cat fur so it won’t be too itchy #DoctorWho

5/30/13 — #DoctorWho Scarf — the first 27 inches http://twitpic.com/cue3r8

6/8/13 — Knitting 54 rows of the same color is so unfufilling #DoctorWhoScarf

6/9/13 — I confess, I’m making the 9ft version from S-15, not the 12ft as it’s for me & I’m only 5’6″ #DoctorWhoScarf

6/9/13 — 40 inches knitted #DoctorWhoScarf http://twitpic.com/cwb4xt

6/10/13 — I do not understand why most swear they’ll never knit one again. It’s easy-peasy lemon sqeezy #DoctorWhoScarf

6/16/13 — #DoctorWhoScarf Week 4 knitting total: 52 inches

6/27/13 — I have just passed the half way point. Huzzah! #DoctorWhoScarf

6/28/13 — Whovian Highlight of day: knitting 4’s scraf while watching 11. #DoctorWho