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A pair of 19th-century crocheted purses.

This is my brief tale of two crocheted 19th-century purses, or what they would have called “reticules.” These little purses were called reticules because they were so ridiculously small and could barely hold anything. Considering that back in the days when these were made, a lady did not have so much to carry with her when she left the house; they didn’t need to be that big. She only needed a purse large enough to hold a few coins and maybe a front door key.

My inspiration came from today’s video upload by Just Vintage Crochet. [They uploaded the video on 11/29/2023; I’m a little behind.} Corinna’s channel is one of my guilty pleasures, YouTube viewing, and, quite frankly, the driving force for my refocus of my historical costuming and getting back into vintage knitting and crochet. I lost most of my sewing mojo after Costume College in 2022 and found it difficult to drag myself into the”Ministry of Sewing and Time Travel” because the gentle whirl of the sewing machine motors was not especially migraine-friendly… but I digress.

Not that long ago, as part of my refocusing efforts [and a little pro-active “Swedish Death Cleaning” on my part; no, not dying, just trying to get ahead of the curve as I’m in my sixties], as vintage knits need natural fibers to get the correct feel and drape, I gifted Just Vintage Crochet with a substantial portion of my man-made fiber yarns. As she said in her video, it was an unsolicited gift to her as a thank-you for the inspiration to get back into my own vintage knitting. As anyone who sews, knits, crochets, quilts, or makes historical costumes, one’s stash can be immense. I sent two shipments of yarn to Corinna, and the last one rated a mention on her “happy mail” video title. I also promised not to send her anything until after the first of the year with the last set of boxes. Again, I digress.

Now, back to the video titled “The Actual First Crochet Pattern |⏳ 185 Years Old | Just Vintage Crochet.” Seriously, how could I ignore something touted as the first crochet pattern? I watched the video and decided it was simple enough for me to see if it was something I could quickly whip up and do a little research into this as well. So, I started with the blog that provided the video’s information and patterns. The website is Little World of Whimsy, and her specialty is amigurumi. She wrote a post about “The Real History of Crochet,” where she breaks down the history of the origins of crocheting. It’s a brief and well-written read. She provides links to the original instruction books and screen captures of the two oldest patterns. [I downloaded both sets of the instructions.] There are no examples of the finished bags on the Little World of Whimsy’s post. That’s where Just Vintage Crochet comes in, as they made the purses for their videos.

As I watched the video on the first purse, as is the case of most knitting patterns of the Victorian era, the instructions can be more than occasionally vague to the modern crafter, as there is a lot of assumed knowledge having been passed down from mother to daughter. This was one of my biggest complaints about researching source material for the 1960s yarn craft lecture that I gave at Costume College several years back; the other was the context within the section of the “receipts,” or to use our modern terminology, patterns.

The first purse comes from an 1837 book titled The Ladies’ Knitting and Netting Book: Second Series by Miss Watts, page 51. The specific set of instructions is in French, which Little World translated into English. I tried double-checking the translation using Google Translate; it was close enough. As an added bonus, a modern version was included on Little World’s website. I watched with interest as the tiny purse was fashioned according to the translated instructions, and while it ended up being useable by Victorian standards for a little bag to hang from one’s wrist at a ball, like a Tussey-mussy. However, there appear to be some instructions missing, like how many rows the finished bag should be tall or how to finish off the top opening. Knowing the history between France and England, it wouldn’t surprise me in the least if the French creator had purposefully left out instructions.

The second purse comes from an 1840 book titled “The Lady’s Assistant for executing useful and fancy designs in knitting, netting, and crochet work” and from Archive.org. It, too, is a bit vague, but again, it assumes knowledge and context of the instructions for purse assembly in the entire book rather than a standalone pattern. Here is the link to Just Vintage Crochet’s version of the second purse. I think it came out very cute.

I must confess that this purse had me a bit perplexed, and thus, the historical costumer in me had to dig through the sourcebook for this pattern to give it some context. The first clue to what type of purse this should be is what the pattern calls it. It is called a “Long purse of open work of single tambour,” or as it is more commonly known as a “Miser’s Purse,” and it has been around since the Georgian era and used up to the turn of the 20th century. The best way to describe a Miser’s Purse to the modern audience is that it is a long skinny tube that is closed at both ends, with an opening in the center and two metal rings that act as closures. Based upon the other patterns in the book, I propose that after one has created a piece that is roughly 5-7 inches wide, you would fold it in half and slip stitch each side up 2-1/2 inches from each end towards the center, and then cinch up the ends to close them.

This concludes my introduction to my “brief” tale of two purses. My deep dive into these bags will include some speculations on my part about what they should look like, and the finished final products, which will be for sale in my shop, will follow before month’s end.

Thanks for reading. Now go support Just Vintage Crochet on YouTube and subscribe to her channel.

If you would like to support my further creative endeavors, you can buy me a coffee!

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1970s reboot project(s)

It seems that Hollywood has now completely run out of fresh ideas and is, has, or is planning to reboot anything popular in the past, and thus, I have decided to take some inspiration from the folks “down below” and do a 1970s reboot of my own.

So what does this mean in the Foxes’ Costuming universe? I plan on pulling some of my favorite patterns from my archives and remaking these vintage gems using modern fabrics that my meager allowance could not afford and then applying my current sewing skills and techniques that my 12- and 15-year-old self did not have.

We will also explore the beginnings of my Capsule Wardrobe obsession that started with Seventeen magazine’s August 1978 “Back to School” issue.

This will be a slow process (as there will be knitting and possibly crocheting involved), and I’m toying with the idea of making videos along with the blog posts, but that is yet to be seen as I’m really quite camera-shy.

PS: These finished items will ultimately be available for purchase and will be Missy sizes 12-14, as those are what sizes the patterns are.

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Costume College 2023 – Basic of Interfacing.

Hello, fellow students of the costuming world!

As promised, here are the links to download the handouts and websites I mentioned during the lecture.

Pellon 101 – This is a 12-page PDF file that gives the name, description, and recommendations for fabric and projects for each type of interfacing. You can download it from this page from Pellon’s blog. The post is from July 2012, but good information never really changes.

Burda Style – This compact one-page guide is a good source for Vilene/Pellon if you shop online or abroad. The PDF file automatically downloads when you click the link.

Farmhouse Fabrics – Online shop that carries an assortment of interfacing and stabilizers, including the fusible interfacing that is suitable for use on silk, which unfortunately is currently out of stock.  They specialize in heirloom sewing and, thus, carry both sew-in and fusible hair canvas for tailoring.  (They carry some of these most delicious cotton batiste I have ever had a chance to lay my hands on to date, as well as a full complement of Liberty of London Tana Lawn prints.)

Pollard’s Sew Creative: Online class –  January 2020: Making Sense of Stabilizers, Needles, and Threads.  The course costs $10/US and is worth every penny to have a quick PDF guide.

As always, if you have any questions, please feel free to post them in the comments.

08/13/2023 Bonus Edit to add: One of the best uses for very lightweight fusible interfacing is for stabilizing pattern pieces that you intend to use more than once. Thus, if you use commercial tissue paper patterns and you find the perfect pattern for that blouse, shirt, pants, chemise, etc., iron that lightweight fusible interfacing to the back side of the pattern pieces, and it will last longer than you need the pattern.

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The Infamous 1920s “One-Hour” Dress – Is it really possible?

We’ve all seen the references to a mid-1920s dress that can be made in an hour and find ourselves intrigued by the possibilities.

If you are like me, you discovered the “Miss Fisher Mysteries” on Netflix and have become enamored with this non-formula detective drama with a strong female lead.  Not only does the show feature the brilliant, smexy as all get-up, burgeoning middle-aged Miss Phyrine Fisher and a delightful group of supporting cast, but some very wearable 1920s clothes.

So now inspired by yet another television drama with fabulous clothes, the siren song of lady google-lay beckons us to comb the web for resources so we can create our own copies of her period-appropriate “Capsule Wardrobe.” [At some point in time, I’ll blog on my love-hate relationship with capsule wardrobes.]

So… sometime back in March, I had a Tea coming up. It was at one of my favorite places, which is housed in a building that was built in 1926.  And rather than wear my sad Titanic era dress and the abomination that is the hat, I decided that I would accept the challenge and attempt to make the infamous “One-House” dress and see if it can actually be done in an hour.

I raided my stash and came across some fabric that reminded me of Miss Fisher’s companion, Dorothy (“Dot”) Williams.  It’s been washed and ironed. I acquired a pattern, printed it, and read through it, measurements were taken.  And as soon as I can get to my sewing room the clock will start ticking.

This is going to be fun!

… to be continued …

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18th-century Stomacher Project – part 1

As a part of my continuing education and refining my skill set, I’m doing a 12-week embroidery and embellishment course via the Embroidery & Embellishment with Denise Hendrick group on the blessed and most holy FaceBook. [Why yes, that was a tad bit of snark about Facebook on my part.]  It’s a closed group so you have to request permission to join it.

The project is to create a sampler so I’ve decided to “kill to two birds with one stone” and make my sampler in the final form of an 18th-century stomacher.  I’m adapting the pattern that Lauren at American Duchess used for her stomacher.

Today is prepping my fabric and trace the design onto the fabric.  I scored a deal on pearl cotton at Hobby Lobby: 105 skeins for $16.99 less 30% off, which works out to 11 cents per skein.  I am happy with that.  It almost makes up for the cost of the yarn to make the 13th Doctor’s rainbow scarf…but that’s another blog post in the making.

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Embracing the insanity that is hand-sewing: The American Duchess Book Project

There are days when I question my sanity, and then I remember that I’m running a fever and everything makes sense.  I started coming down with a cold when I made this earth-shattering decision: I decided that I was going to make everything in the newly published “The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking” book.  Some of it will be done all by hand, some it will be mostly done by machine and other concessions along the way, but all of it will be for me.

The book is nicely presented with color photos and illustrations.  The text is easily understood.  My only initial complaint is the book does not contain shifts, chemises (if you’re French), or stays (corsets).  I’ve watched the YouTube videos and heard about the time constraints and that some things had to be cut, and would be covered elsewhere like the AD blog, but how about a book on underpinnings, and just underpinnings?

For the purpose of continuity and ease for searching, the blog posts, this series is going to be referred to as ADBP with the project name. I’ll be using the Twitter hashtag #HandsewingInsanityProject

Wish me luck.

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The Shawl from hell 10-20-16 Update


I think that I have lost count of how many times I have gotten so frustrated with this project because of miscounting stitches or inadvertently added them that I’ve been left with the only thing to do is rip out everything and start over from the beginning.  I think that this makes reboot number 9.

Wanting to truly wipe the slate clean, I started over with not only two different skeins of your, but a new set of knitting needles to wipe any bad psychic vibes that may have been imprinted on the bamboo ones that I have been using.  The new ones are part of a multi-size interchangeable set from a company called Knit Picks. The needles are made from multi-layer dyed rosewood. They’re very attractive in a quirky sort of way. I like them.

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What we’ve been up too — 7/21/2016 edition

Besides tending to the needs of our gracious feline overlords, where is a little of what we’ve been up to lately:

  1. Game of Throne cosplay — We created our version of the High Sparrow’s robe.  Blog post in progress in this one.  Did you know that he had four different ones if you count the one he wore in the Season 6 finale?
  2. Went on “progress” to have lunch with Claire and Jamie — I went to the Outlander exhibit at the Paley Center.  I have two words: ‘awesome’ and ‘go’.  Seriously, if you live within a couple of hours and are a fan of the show and the incredible work that Terry Dresbach and her extremely talent team create it, it is worth the trip to Beverly Hills to see it.  [Me: Does sipping a frappucino in front of the window drooling at the RED dress count as lunch?]
  3. Fabrication:  We’ve received our first batches of Tudor era style wool from England.  We’ve received some heavy weight “poor black” linen as well.
  4. Costume College 2016 — Yep, we’re going.
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Costume vs. Garb — well, which is it?

You’ve just discovered the joys of historical reenacting[1] and have joined your first event as a real participant, not a well-appointed patron, and during the course of the event, you find yourself engulfed in a heated dispute over what to call the outfit you are wearing. ACK! What’s a newbie to do? So, while you’re fending off some overzealous, self-appointed member of the costume police, please allow me to clarify a few points and answer that eternal question . . . The ultimate answer might surprise you. It did us!

Is it a “Costume” or is it“Garb”?

As much as some would prefer it to be the contrary, referring to your “fyne period attyre” as a Costume is not only grammatically correct, but proper as well, as I will explain.

A Costume as defined[2] is either “the attire worn in a play or at a fancy dress ball”; “the attire characteristic of a country or a time or a social class” or “unusual or period attire not characteristic of or appropriate to the time or place.”

So let’s examine the facts.

  1. You are a Participant and/or a Performer at your local Ren Faire.
  2. You’re wearing clothes are indicative of 16th century England.
  3. It’s the 21st century America.

First, if you assume the premise that “All the Faire’s a Stage”, then the condition of “attire worn in a play” is met, and thus, you are wearing a costume.

Second, the simple fact you are wearing clothing reminiscent of 16th century England and the calendar says it’s June of 2003 and you’re in Devor, California precludes that it could be anything else but a costume.

Therefore, with that being said, you are wearing a Costume.

Nevertheless, there are instances where not only are you wearing a Costume, but you are wearing Garb as well.

 Garb, as defined[3] is most commonly what we do, e.g.: “provide [someone] with clothing or put on clothes”. Think of that line from a well known Christmas Carole – “don we now our gay apparel.” Additionally, Garb is also “a particular dress for sporting,” and here lays our clue, the use of the word “sporting.” While the usage is somewhat Victorian as well as arcane in nature, and no longer in vogue, sporting refers to one’s participating in athletic endeavors. As any student of Biblical Hebrew will tell you, Garb is one of those words that gets as close to a verbal noun as we get in the English language.

Therefore, if you are participating in recreation of a period athletic event (ie: fencing, archery, horse tournaments, jousting and such), the specific period attire worn for such an event would most certainly as well as correctly be considered Garb. However, it is only Garb if you are a participant in the sporting event, not as a part of the combatants’ following or the spectators.

Regretfully, there is a “certain stigma” that has become associated with the word “costume.” Amongst certain factions of historical reenactors, there are those would rather die a thousand deaths than to have their labor of love be equated to that $40.00 special from the local volume discounter at Halloween time. I, on the other hand am not, but I am going to take the leap and speculate that this might have something to do with the readily acceptance of the word “Cosplay”[4] as a way to distinguish our labors of love – usually from a movie, television program, comic book or anime – from a fancy dress party outfit. [Yes, I used the British term for a costume party.]

So what is our answer to the question? We say Yes, it’s both – we just lean heavier towards the costume side of the equation.  But whatever you want to call it, it’s still just clothes from a different era than the one we are currently in.

 

References:

[1]“Historical Reenacting” for the purposes of this paper is being generically applied to any and all activities which require the participant to dress and conduct themselves in manner appropriate to an era of history that is not the actual years in which they are living. Such groups include reenactors at such places at Kentwell Hall, Colonial Williamsburg, Plymoth Plantation; Renaissance Faire participants (“Rennies”), Dickens Festivals, and members of the Society for Creative Anachronisms (SCA) to name a few of the more prominent groups.

[2] The American Heritage College Dictionary, Third Edition, Houghtion, Mifflin Company, 1993, page 314

[3]The American Heritage College Dictionary, Third Edition, Houghtion, Mifflin Company, 1993, page 561

[4] “Cosplay.” Wikipedia. Wikipedia Foundation, Inc, 5 Mar. 2016. Web. 15 Mar. 2016. <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosplay#cite_note-42>.