Eleanora of Toledo Gown — part 7

To quickly recap what’s been happening over the past couple of weeks, although in reality, it’s only been three, or four days of limited hours of sewing…

Corset: We have achieved corset, but not without making the first one two sizes too small, which I supposed had much to do with the fact that I took two people’s measurements at the office at the same time and had the petite-er of my two petite co-workers in my head at the same time.  My corset pattern is The Mantua Maker’s 1550-1630 “Quilted Pair of Bodies — the same pattern I used for my own a few years ago.  The pattern is a dream and props to the person who drafted it.

Because my current victim is well-endowed with vast tracks of umm… [insert Monty Python reference here] to make a corset that will fit her frame and accommodate the girls, the straps have to come off as they hit her in the wrong place…for example the back of her arms and generally force the corset up too high on her.  Other than trimming the waistline up about a 1/2 inch across the back and sides, things have worked out well.

Camicia: For those not in the know, a camicia is a shift or what is more commonly referred to as a chemise.  The fabric of choice is 3.5 oz. linen which comes from my favorite online fabric source, which is surprisingly a local vendor — local meaning the greater Los Angeles area, though the lady for whom I am sewing kept saying, ‘This feels just like the linen I’ve seen in the Ukraine.  This is just perfect, I already feel at home in my costume.”  [me: Gotta love the neophytes …but she should know as she’s basically from there.  *rolling eyes*]

I followed the instructions that came with the pattern for the 1540s-60s Florentine Lady’s Outfit from Reconstructing History.com almost verbatim, the exception being is I made my own bias for the neck band.  While this is most likely not 100% period, it does give it a much nicer, smoother, and cleaner look and finish.

People, take the time to learn how to cut and make your own self-bias, it will make all the difference in how professional your finished garments will look, and you’ll feel awesome that you finally did it.

Farthingale: Completed, and I’ve ranted about it already in my post about Simplicity’s 16th Century Underpinnings.

The Gown: It’s under construction and worthy of its own pattern review rant.  I will say this n the interim: “Kass, I love you but the slacker girl in me would readily pay an additional $10 for skirt pieces on separate sheets of paper rather than trace them off separate. I just don’t have the time to do it every single time.“