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A pair of 19th-century crocheted purses.

This is my brief tale of two crocheted 19th-century purses, or what they would have called “reticules.” These little purses were called reticules because they were so ridiculously small and could barely hold anything. Considering that back in the days when these were made, a lady did not have so much to carry with her when she left the house; they didn’t need to be that big. She only needed a purse large enough to hold a few coins and maybe a front door key.

My inspiration came from today’s video upload by Just Vintage Crochet. [They uploaded the video on 11/29/2023; I’m a little behind.} Corinna’s channel is one of my guilty pleasures, YouTube viewing, and, quite frankly, the driving force for my refocus of my historical costuming and getting back into vintage knitting and crochet. I lost most of my sewing mojo after Costume College in 2022 and found it difficult to drag myself into the”Ministry of Sewing and Time Travel” because the gentle whirl of the sewing machine motors was not especially migraine-friendly… but I digress.

Not that long ago, as part of my refocusing efforts [and a little pro-active “Swedish Death Cleaning” on my part; no, not dying, just trying to get ahead of the curve as I’m in my sixties], as vintage knits need natural fibers to get the correct feel and drape, I gifted Just Vintage Crochet with a substantial portion of my man-made fiber yarns. As she said in her video, it was an unsolicited gift to her as a thank-you for the inspiration to get back into my own vintage knitting. As anyone who sews, knits, crochets, quilts, or makes historical costumes, one’s stash can be immense. I sent two shipments of yarn to Corinna, and the last one rated a mention on her “happy mail” video title. I also promised not to send her anything until after the first of the year with the last set of boxes. Again, I digress.

Now, back to the video titled “The Actual First Crochet Pattern |⏳ 185 Years Old | Just Vintage Crochet.” Seriously, how could I ignore something touted as the first crochet pattern? I watched the video and decided it was simple enough for me to see if it was something I could quickly whip up and do a little research into this as well. So, I started with the blog that provided the video’s information and patterns. The website is Little World of Whimsy, and her specialty is amigurumi. She wrote a post about “The Real History of Crochet,” where she breaks down the history of the origins of crocheting. It’s a brief and well-written read. She provides links to the original instruction books and screen captures of the two oldest patterns. [I downloaded both sets of the instructions.] There are no examples of the finished bags on the Little World of Whimsy’s post. That’s where Just Vintage Crochet comes in, as they made the purses for their videos.

As I watched the video on the first purse, as is the case of most knitting patterns of the Victorian era, the instructions can be more than occasionally vague to the modern crafter, as there is a lot of assumed knowledge having been passed down from mother to daughter. This was one of my biggest complaints about researching source material for the 1960s yarn craft lecture that I gave at Costume College several years back; the other was the context within the section of the “receipts,” or to use our modern terminology, patterns.

The first purse comes from an 1837 book titled The Ladies’ Knitting and Netting Book: Second Series by Miss Watts, page 51. The specific set of instructions is in French, which Little World translated into English. I tried double-checking the translation using Google Translate; it was close enough. As an added bonus, a modern version was included on Little World’s website. I watched with interest as the tiny purse was fashioned according to the translated instructions, and while it ended up being useable by Victorian standards for a little bag to hang from one’s wrist at a ball, like a Tussey-mussy. However, there appear to be some instructions missing, like how many rows the finished bag should be tall or how to finish off the top opening. Knowing the history between France and England, it wouldn’t surprise me in the least if the French creator had purposefully left out instructions.

The second purse comes from an 1840 book titled “The Lady’s Assistant for executing useful and fancy designs in knitting, netting, and crochet work” and from Archive.org. It, too, is a bit vague, but again, it assumes knowledge and context of the instructions for purse assembly in the entire book rather than a standalone pattern. Here is the link to Just Vintage Crochet’s version of the second purse. I think it came out very cute.

I must confess that this purse had me a bit perplexed, and thus, the historical costumer in me had to dig through the sourcebook for this pattern to give it some context. The first clue to what type of purse this should be is what the pattern calls it. It is called a “Long purse of open work of single tambour,” or as it is more commonly known as a “Miser’s Purse,” and it has been around since the Georgian era and used up to the turn of the 20th century. The best way to describe a Miser’s Purse to the modern audience is that it is a long skinny tube that is closed at both ends, with an opening in the center and two metal rings that act as closures. Based upon the other patterns in the book, I propose that after one has created a piece that is roughly 5-7 inches wide, you would fold it in half and slip stitch each side up 2-1/2 inches from each end towards the center, and then cinch up the ends to close them.

This concludes my introduction to my “brief” tale of two purses. My deep dive into these bags will include some speculations on my part about what they should look like, and the finished final products, which will be for sale in my shop, will follow before month’s end.

Thanks for reading. Now go support Just Vintage Crochet on YouTube and subscribe to her channel.

If you would like to support my further creative endeavors, you can buy me a coffee!

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Costume College 2017 — The Shawl from Hell

As part of my personal continuing education and need to keep my brain alive by learning new tricks, I’ve taken up knitting, and not just any knitting, hand-knitting lace.  Because I don’t have enough things to drive my insane.  Anyways, my neurologist signed off on the idea as being a good one and gave me her blessing to proceed.  And ultimate truth be told, I fell in love with all the knitty bits that Claire wore on Outlander and had to have them …and the only way to get them was knit them myself.  Fortunately, Lion Brand carries the official Outlander kits.

As my current skill level is slightly better than a novice, there is a whole lot that I simply do not know, thus making any project that’s beyond knitting the 4th doctor’s scarf is new and has a steep learning curve.  I’ve ripped it out at least 5 times now because it’s such a simple pattern, it’s easy to get confused.

mohair-shawlMy chosen project is a Lady’s Wrap circa 1961.  It’s to go with my lavender silk cocktail dress for the Friday evening cocktail party.  According to the lady from whom I acquired it from on Etsy: “This pattern is from Bear Brand and Fleisher Yarns Hand Knit Mohair Fashions Vol. 55, from 1961….”  I invite you to check out her Etsy shop: Vintage Knit Crochet.  There are lots of good things to recreate there.

The yarn in question is Patons Lace yarn and the color I’m using what they call “Plum Smoke.”  I got it at Joann’s, on sale, before I even knew what I wanted to make because I loved the soft heathery deep lavender color.  So when I decided what I was planning on making clothing wise, a wrap for a sleeveless lavender silk cocktail dress seemed natural.

I decided to take a break and write up a little something on this project before I go bonkers and rip it out yet another time.

 

 

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Costume College 2017 Project list …

One of the advantages of going to Costume College is getting to learn what the next year’s theme is going to be, and thus getting a metaphorical leg up on your fellow costumers — not that there are any prizes to won outside of bragging rights and exposure.  But it’s nice to be able to dress the party and not be rushed, which I’m going to be anyway because I’m on a D-I-E-T and planning on losing a half a dozen or more dress sizes between now and then …and I am so not going to make everything in a size 28-30 when I could very well be a size 18 by then, just saying.

The theme for next year is the 1960s, which is actually rather great as far as I’m considered.  Besides being a child of the ’60s, I am finding myself actually preferring the clothing convention of those two decades: conservative clothes with clean lines and ended with a little funky.  Basically, me in fashion.  So I decided I would make clothing that I could rotate into my normal day-to-day wardrobe like dresses, skirts, sweaters, pants, jackets and cute little blouses.  So I started trolling the interwebs for vintage patterns — those iconic styles from my childhood that we saw so exquisitely reproduced on Mad Men and lovingly watched reruns of Bewitched — but since they are going to be incorporated into my capsule wardrobe, I’ve got to really like them.

I have now acquired about a dozen or two patterns now and each delightful acquisition, with the exception of  two, when shown to my (semi-retired) MOD revivalist hubby what meant with “No, that’s too high fashion.”  You can well imagine the conversation that has followed….

Me:  What do you think of these? 

Him: They’re too high fashion.

Me: Did I at any time say that I was specifically doing MOD?  No. I said I was doing the ’60s.  And for that matter, I don’t think I was specific about what century either.  I could very well be doing 1560s, [insert dramatic pause] which gives me an idea…

I also made a list of the number of outfits I am going to need for the three-day event.  There’s the Thursday evening Welcome pool party reception, Friday classes, Friday evening cocktail party, Saturday Classes, Saturday night Gala and possibly Sunday breakfast, but only if it looks like I can jet out of Woodland Hills in time for church in Glendale.

  • Thursday Evening: I’m thinking something hippie chick. I’ve got some truly obnoxious green and blue paisley that will make a wicked swimsuit. Or possibly the pink and orangish swirl for a skirt and some type of floaty peasant type shirt.
  • Friday Classes: I’m leaning towards something sporty so I can move around.  I have some blue and gray paisley reproduction print from Liberty of London that I’ll be using for the shirt.  Haven’t decided if I’m going with sleeves or not.
  • Friday evening cocktail party:  This is the one outfit I’ve got locked down. I have lavender silk crepe di chine that I am going to hand-smock the yoke and bead.  (Think something that you would expect Samantha Stevens would wear to a corporate cocktail party hosted by the Tates.) And I’m knitting a mohair wrap to go with it.  Said wrap is already in production.
  • Saturday Classes: Again, like Friday classes, I’m leaning towards something sporty so I can move around.  To appease the gods of MOD-dom, I’ve decided to go a bit more MOD.  I’ll be hand-knitting a sweater.  It’s cute: it has a bow. I just need to decide what to pair with it: a skirt or the 1960’s equivalent of skinny jeans…. and research appropriate colors.
  • Saturday Gala: Because it’s my first love and truly my field of expertise, I’m going 16th century.  I haven’t decided with I’m going Tudor or Elizabethan or Venetian, but definitely 16th century.
  • Sunday morning: something that I can wear to church.  However, as I’m typing this blog post up, I’ve decided.  I scored some borderline hideous, reproduction blue-green and bone floral print cotton from Liberty of London and a semi-current Simplicity Patterns 1960s dress pattern release that I’m going to whip up.

Costume College 2017 won’t be until the end of July or the first part of August next year so I’ve got six to nine months to change my mind.  Let’s see if I do.  [Okay, make that let’s see how much I change my mind.] Blog posts to follow as each item progresses.